Ricottagnocchi

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1. 1
   Wrap 8 oz. whole-milk ricotta in a kitchen towel and wring out over sink to remove as much liquid as possible. Place wrapped ricotta in a colander set inside a large bowl and chill 1 hour.
2. 2
   Bring zest of ½ lemon and 1½ cups heavy cream to a simmer in a medium saucepan. Reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until sauce is reduced by half, 15–20 minutes.
3. 3
   Meanwhile, gently unwrap ricotta and transfer to a medium bowl. Mix in 1 large egg, a tiny pinch of freshly grated nutmeg (if using), 1 oz. Parmesan, finely grated (about ½ cup), and ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt; season with freshly ground pepper. Add ⅔ cup (83 g) all-purpose flour and mix until dough comes together.
4. 4
   Gather dough into a ball and transfer to a lightly floured work surface. Divide into quarters, then divide each piece into 4–6 portions. Roll each portion into a ½"-thick rope and cut into ¼"–½"-long pieces. As you work, arrange gnocchi in a single layer on a semolina-dusted rimmed baking sheet and keep covered with barely moist paper towels.
5. 5
   Working in batches, cook gnocchi in a medium pot of gently boiling salted water until they float to the surface, about 30 seconds, then continue cooking 30 seconds more. Using a slotted spoon or fine-mesh strainer, transfer gnocchi to a baking sheet lightly greased with extra-virgin olive oil.
6. 6
   Add ½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¼ tsp. Morton kosher salt to sauce; season with pepper. Add gnocchi and 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter to sauce; stir until butter is melted and gnocchi is heated through, about 1 minute. Remove from heat. Taste and season with more salt if needed.
7. 7
   Divide gnocchi among shallow bowls and top with finely grated Parmesan and pepper. Do ahead: Gnocchi can be formed 3 months ahead. Freeze on baking sheet, then transfer to a resealable plastic bag. Cook from frozen.