Turon (Banana Lumpia)

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1. 1
   Spread out a round lumpia or egg roll wrapper on a work surface. Place a small bowl of water nearby. Lay 1 plantain quarter (from 3 ripe [mostly black] plantains, peeled, quartered lengthwise) horizontally across center of wrapper, leaving a ½" border on short sides; trim plantain to fit as needed. Generously sprinkle plantain with dark brown sugar (about 1 Tbsp.), then ground cinnamon.
2. 2
   Dip a finger in water and run it around edges of wrapper to moisten. Fold side of wrapper nearest to you up and over plantain, then tuck underneath plantain. Fold in left and right sides of wrapper and roll up to form a tight cylinder. Dip a finger in water again and moisten seam; press to seal. Transfer turon to a parchment-lined baking sheet. Repeat process with remaining wrappers and plantain quarters and more brown sugar and cinnamon.
3. 3
   Pour olive oil (3–4 cups) into a large heavy skillet, preferably cast iron, to come ½" up sides; fit with thermometer. Heat over medium-high until oil registers 350°. Using tongs and working in batches of 3 or 4, carefully place turon, seam side down, in hot oil and fry, adjusting heat as needed to maintain cooking oil temperature, until golden brown, 1–2 minutes per side. (It’s okay if some sugar leaks out.) Transfer fried banana rolls to a wire rack set inside another rimmed baking sheet and immediately season with kosher salt.
4. 4
   To serve, slice turon in half on a diagonal if desired and sprinkle with flaky sea salt. Serve with vanilla ice cream. Do Ahead: Turon can be assembled (but not fried) 1 day ahead. Cover with foil and chill.