Sarmale (rumänska kålrullar)

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1. 1
   Start by making the filling. Heat the oil in a frying pan over a medium heat and cook the onion for 20 mins until soft, golden and starting to caramelise. Add a splash of water if needed (if the onion looks like it’s starting to burn). Tip into a large bowl and set aside to cool.
2. 2
   Meanwhile, cook the rice in a pan of boiling water for 10-12 mins until just al dente. Drain and tip into the bowl with the onions. Set aside to cool.
3. 3
   Soak the slice of bread in just enough water to cover it for 5 mins, then squeeze out any excess liquid. Add to the cooled onion and rice along with 1 tsp salt, 1 tsp pepper and the remaining filling ingredients. Mix using your hands until everything is well combined. Chill the mixture while you prepare the sauerkraut.
4. 4
   Unroll the leaves and rinse under cold water (don’t pat dry; it makes them easier to roll if a little damp). Trim away the thick stem at the base of each leaf, so you're left with a small A-shaped gap. Turn in the sides of that A to create a whole leaf shape again. Set aside the trimmings for later. Aim for around 34–36 leaves in total. Set aside any remaining leaves with the stem trimmings.
5. 5
   Put roughly 1 tbsp of the filling mixture at the base or widest part of each leaf and press into a roughly 5cm long sausage, leaving a small gap at each edge. Roll tightly once or twice, fold in the sides, then continue rolling to seal. Arrange the rolls seam-side down on a plate or board. If your rolls seem loose, you may have added slightly too much filling. Repeat with the remaining leaves.
6. 6
   Shred the cabbage trimmings plus the remaining cabbage leaves and sprinkle over enough to cover the base of a large, wide ovenproof casserole dish or pan. Arrange the stuffed rolls on top in a circular pattern, nestling them snugly together so they hold their shape during cooking. Add in a second layer if needed, tucking the diced pancetta in between the rolls. Sprinkle over any remaining shredded cabbage.
7. 7
   In a large jug, mix together the tomato purée, paprika and dill or thyme. Gradually whisk in 750ml water until combined. Pour the liquid over the rolls, cover the pan with a lid and bring to a boil over a medium-high heat. Turn down the heat to low and simmer gently for 3 hrs until the rolls are very tender, shaking the pan occasionally to stop the rolls from sticking. For a lightly caramelised finish, uncover the pan and cook in an oven heated to 180C/160C fan/gas 4 for the final 30 mins.
8. 8
   Serve with creamy polenta, soured cream, pickled chillies and a sprinkling of fresh dill. Sarmale can be served straightaway but even better the next day. Reheat gently on the hob for about 45 mins.