Svamp Bourguignon

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1. 1
   Combine ¼ cup dried porcini (about 0.3 oz.) or other dried mushrooms and 3 cups boiling water in a heatproof bowl and let soak until ready to use.
2. 2
   Melt 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter in a large high-sided ovenproof skillet, braiser, or short wide pot (at least 3½ qt.) over high heat. Add 1¼ lb. mixed mushrooms (such as crimini, button, portobello, and/or baby shiitake), cut into 1" pieces; cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms release their liquid and mixture comes to a simmer, 5–7 minutes. Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until liquid evaporates and mushrooms are golden brown, 6–8 minutes more. Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a medium bowl. Repeat process with another 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter and remaining 1¼ lb. mixed mushrooms, cut into 1" pieces.
3. 3
   Return first batch of mushrooms to pan; add 3 Tbsp. all-purpose flour and cook, stirring often, until incorporated, about 2 minutes (flour may clump). Transfer mushrooms back to medium bowl, scraping pan to include as much flour as possible.
4. 4
   Combine 2 large carrots, peeled, sliced ½" thick on a deep diagonal, 10 garlic cloves, finely chopped, one 14.4-oz. bag frozen pearl onions, and 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter in same pan; reduce heat to medium-high. Cook, stirring often, until vegetables are softened around the edges, 6–8 minutes. Add 2 Tbsp. double-concentrated tomato paste and cook, stirring constantly, until deepened in color, about 3 minutes. Pour in 1½ cups dry red wine (such as Burgundy), scraping up any brown bits, and cook, stirring occasionally, until reduced by about one third, 5–7 minutes.
5. 5
   Add 5 sprigs thyme, 1 dried bay leaf, 1 Tbsp. soy sauce, and 2½ tsp. Diamond Crystal or 1½ tsp. Morton kosher salt to pan. Hold a fine-mesh sieve over and pour reserved dried mushroom soaking liquid through; discard mushrooms in sieve. Season generously with freshly ground pepper. Bring to a boil, cover, and reduce heat so mixture is at a simmer. Cook, stirring occasionally, until carrots and onions are tender, 45–50 minutes.
6. 6
   Uncover and return reserved cooked mushrooms to pan. Cook, uncovered, stirring occasionally, until mixture thickens slightly and mushrooms are tender, 18–20 minutes.
7. 7
   Meanwhile, heat 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high. Arrange 8–12 oz. maitake or oyster mushrooms, torn into bite-size pieces, in a single layer; cook, undisturbed, until deeply browned and crisp underneath, about 5 minutes. Turn and cook until other side is golden, about 4 minutes.
8. 8
   Stir remaining 2 Tbsp. unsalted butter into mushroom bourguignon. Remove from heat and season with more salt and/or pepper if needed. Remove thyme and bay leaf; discard. Spoon crispy maitakes on top.
9. 9
   To serve, divide mashed potatoes, cooked polenta, or buttered cooked egg noodles among plates. Spoon mushroom bourguignon over; drizzle with a little Sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar. Do Ahead: Mushroom bourguignon (without crispy maitakes) can be made 12 hours ahead. Transfer to an airtight container; chill. Bring to a simmer over medium, adding splashes of water to loosen as needed, before serving.