Maple-Wasabi Wings

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1. 1
   Place racks in upper and lower thirds of oven; preheat to 450°. Line 2 large rimmed baking sheets with foil and place a wire rack in each one; spray both racks with nonstick vegetable oil spray. Pat 3½–4-lb. chicken wings, flats and drumettes separated, wing tips removed, dry with paper towels and place in a large bowl. Sprinkle 4 tsp. baking powder, 1 Tbsp. Diamond Crystal or 1¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and ¾ tsp. freshly ground white pepper over and toss to evenly coat. If you have time, let wings sit at room temperature 1 hour, or chill, uncovered, up to 12 hours. If chilling, let sit at room temperature 1 hour before baking.
2. 2
   Divide wings between prepared racks, taking care not to overcrowd. Bake 25 minutes. Turn wings over and rotate baking sheets top to bottom and front to back; continue to bake until golden brown, crisp, and cooked through (an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part and avoiding bone should register 165°), 10–15 minutes.
3. 3
   Whisk one 1–2" piece ginger, peeled, finely grated, or 2 tsp. ginger paste, ¹⁄₃ cup pure maple syrup, preferably dark, 3 Tbsp. soy sauce, and 2 tsp. sesame chili oil in a small saucepan to combine, then bring to a simmer over medium-low heat, whisking occasionally. Cook sauce, whisking occasionally, until reduced by about half (it should be thick enough to coat a spoon), 8–10 minutes.
4. 4
   Remove sauce from heat, add 1 Tbsp. chilled unsalted butter, and whisk until incorporated and sauce is smooth and glossy.
5. 5
   When you’re ready to sauce wings, whisk in 2 tsp. wasabi paste. Taste and add up to another 1 tsp. paste if needed. Transfer wings to a large metal bowl. Pour sauce over and toss until evenly coated.
6. 6
   Arrange wings on a platter and sprinkle toasted sesame seeds over if desired.